{"id":1883,"date":"2012-12-22T10:37:07","date_gmt":"2012-12-22T14:37:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/?p=1883"},"modified":"2012-12-22T22:14:08","modified_gmt":"2012-12-23T02:14:08","slug":"my-fun-trumps-fussy-family-christmas-in-globe-and-mail-plus-recipes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/my-fun-trumps-fussy-family-christmas-in-globe-and-mail-plus-recipes\/","title":{"rendered":"My Fun Trumps Fussy Family Christmas in Globe and Mail (plus recipes)"},"content":{"rendered":"<div>\n<p title=\"For novelist Susan Swan, the holidays are steeped both in Edwardian elegance (her family has been serving the same Christmas supper menu for more than 100 years) and a love of gags. Hence the upside-down tree and flying silver balls\"><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/life\/holiday-guide\/holiday-survival-guide\/why-a-fun-holiday-trumps-a-fussy-one\/article6572476\/?cmpid=rss1\">Why a fun holiday trumps a fussy one<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<div class=\"mceTemp mceIEcenter\" style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<dl id=\"attachment_1892\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"width: 440px;\">\n<dt class=\"wp-caption-dt\"><a rel=\"attachment wp-att-1892\" href=\"https:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/my-fun-trumps-fussy-family-christmas-in-globe-and-mail-plus-recipes\/family-christmas\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1892\" title=\"Family Christmas\" src=\"https:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/Family-Christmas-430x242.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"430\" height=\"242\" \/><\/a><\/dt>\n<h1 class=\"wp-caption-dd\">In the 1980s, Susan Swan&#8217;s uncle John (at the head of the table) started displaying his Christmas trees in unusual ways. (Photo courtesy of Susan Swan)<\/h1>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div>Special to The Globe and Mail<\/div>\n<div>Published Saturday, Dec. 22 2012<\/div>\n<div>By Susan Swan<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>From the moment I sat down to write the scene that describes a  traditional Southwestern Ontario Christmas dinner in my new novel, <em>The<\/em> <em>Western Light<\/em> , I knew exactly what I was going to say, since my family has served  the same meal during the holidays for more than a hundred years.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<div>\n<div>\n<p>It  only seemed natural to model the lavish spread in my book after the  dinners prepared by my late grandmother, Pauline Cowan, who was born in  1892 and whose spirit still dominates our Christmas gatherings.  Christmas for her \u2013 as it is for Big Louie, the character in the novel  endowed with my grandmother\u2019s extraordinary gusto \u2013 was a chance to  celebrate the pleasures of food and drink with a vengeance. One of our  ancestors was a temperance reformer who walked from Vergennes, Vt. to  Augusta, a small Ontario village near Brockville, in 1830 \u2013 and we have  made up for his austerity ever since.<\/p>\n<h4>Susan Swan&#8217;s family recipes<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li><a name=\"&amp;lpos=art-holidaysurvivalguide-related stories-stories&amp;lid=Headline.1\" href=\"http:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/life\/holiday-guide\/holiday-recipes\/trifle\/article6574631\/\"> Trifle <\/a><\/li>\n<li><a name=\"&amp;lpos=art-holidaysurvivalguide-related stories-stories&amp;lid=Headline.2\" href=\"http:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/life\/holiday-guide\/holiday-recipes\/hard-sauce\/article6575186\/\"> Hard sauce <\/a><\/li>\n<li><a name=\"&amp;lpos=art-holidaysurvivalguide-related stories-stories&amp;lid=Headline.3\" href=\"http:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/life\/holiday-guide\/holiday-recipes\/bread-sauce\/article6581785\/\"> Bread sauce<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>From the 1920s to the 1960s, dinner was held in my grandmother\u2019s  French-style Victorian home in Sarnia, Ont. The table was set with  finger bowls that held floating red carnations and a thick chunk of  homemade soda bread was wrapped up in the linen napkins \u2013 a Scottish  practice that may have been inherited from my grandmother\u2019s husband,  John Cowan, whose family was immigrant Scots.<\/p>\n<p>Those rituals have  been tossed \u2013 we\u2019re less formal now \u2013 but we still cook most of the same  dishes, including turkey hens with giblet gravy and traditional plum  pudding served aflame and garnished with holly. And, when global warming  doesn\u2019t interfere, we still cool our Christmas wine in the snowbank \u2013 a  throwback to my grandmother\u2019s icebox days. Ice was precious then and  delivered to the door, so cooling the bottles outdoors became habit.<\/p>\n<p>Our  family, a group that today can swell from 10 to 25, still sits around  the table in pre-Confederation leather chairs that were used in the  Upper and Lower Canada legislatures. They belonged to my  great-great-great-grandfather, Timothy Pardee, a Liberal cabinet  minister who voted against his own party to win the right of women to  work at Queen\u2019s Park. He bought the chairs at a fire sale in Ottawa and  used them in his dining room before passing them on to his son, Fred, my  great-grandfather, a Liberal senator and house whip for prime minister  Wilfrid Laurier. Fred passed them on to his daughter, my grandmother,  who gave them to her son, my uncle John, current host of the annual  family meal at his house on the shores of Lake Huron.<\/p>\n<p>It is there  that preparations begin early in December on the rambling property that  in 1917 was bought as a wedding present for my grandmother by my  great-grandfather, the senator. My uncle and aunt turned the plot\u2019s  142-year-old-cottage into their home in the early 1970s and started  holding the family Christmas there.<\/p>\n<p>Every year, my uncle cuts down  a white pine to be trimmed for the meal. For a joke one Christmas in  the 1980s, he hung the tree upside down from the original beams in the  old dining room. Another year, the tree protruded straight out from the  wall. On yet another occasion, it was hung from the ceiling fan. When my  cousin\u2019s wife was tricked into turning the fan on, the tree spun round  and round, spraying silver balls all over the room.<\/p>\n<p>The prank  would cause ulcers in some homes, but, for my good-natured family and  their jolly, misbehaving dogs, it was just another excuse to laugh.<\/p>\n<div>\n<h1 id=\"attachment_1889\">\n<dt><\/dt>\n<\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"mceTemp mceIEcenter\" style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<dl id=\"attachment_1893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"width: 362px;\">\n<dt class=\"wp-caption-dt\"><a rel=\"attachment wp-att-1893\" href=\"https:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/my-fun-trumps-fussy-family-christmas-in-globe-and-mail-plus-recipes\/big-louies-colloquial-canadian-christmas-pic-1-2\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1893\" title=\"Big Louie's Colloquial Canadian Christmas pic-1\" src=\"https:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/Big-Louies-Colloquial-Canadian-Christmas-pic-11-352x430.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"352\" height=\"430\" \/><\/a><\/dt>\n<h1 class=\"wp-caption-dd\">Susan Swan&#8217;s mother Jane Swan and grandmother Pauline Cowan whose gusto inspired Big Louie, the grandmother in Swan&#8217;s novel, The Western Light<\/h1>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">My  grandmother\u2019s Christmas was the triumph of fun over earnestness. She  was a young wife in the Roaring Twenties, when she began hosting it. She  sang flapper songs while my grandfather played the piano. He and his  huge Sarnia family loved practical jokes. A taste for mischief still  lingers alongside a love of Edwardian elegance. But we don\u2019t elaborate  on tradition in our family. When it comes to entertaining, our style is  simple, not self-conscious. Besides, fussy, grandiose courses means less  time for gags.<\/p>\n<p>My grandmother showed my mother how to do  Christmas and my mother showed me. Our meal always starts with vegetable  platters, as though we need to appease our guilt about feasting on two  15-pound hen turkeys \u2013 we always choose hens because male turkeys are  tougher \u2013 whose cavities have been crammed with simmered onions, bread  and lots of butter, salt and pepper. (According to my mother, a stuffing  any fancier takes away from the taste of the bird.)<\/p>\n<p>There are  mashed potatoes with butter and cream, perfectly browned turnips and  bottles of sparkling Burgundy. My grandparents always bought Cr\u00e9mant de  Bourgogne for Christmas. It\u2019s made from the same grapes as Champagne and  a good bottle can still be had for $20 or less.<\/p>\n<p>Along with the  bird come the traditional trimmings: cranberry sauce flavoured with  brandy and ginger; bread sauce for the turkey made with cloves and mace  and served in an ironstone gravy boat; hard sauce for the plum pudding,  prepared a few days ahead.<\/p>\n<p>When my grandmother ran Christmas, her  housekeeper cooked the dinner \u2013 just as her mother\u2019s housekeeper had  before her \u2013 and those recipes have been lost. So my mother had to come  up with her own versions based on the originals. She always  single-handedly cooked every dish, right down to homemade plum puddings,  trifles and mince tarts. Now we all chip in and Christmas desserts  often come from a local bakery \u2013 including a store-bought pudding.  Sometimes the men step in and barbecue the birds.<\/p>\n<p>Nevertheless,  there are still party crackers at everyone\u2019s place setting, as there was  when I was a child in the 1950s. My grandmother\u2019s red carnations are  known to show up in dinner vases. And by the time we sit down to eat  each year, we\u2019re all wearing colourful paper crowns and occasionally  party masks handed out as prizes. Like my  great-great-great-grandfather\u2019s chairs, my family has lived through the  birth of a nation, the vote for women and seismic shifts in male and  female roles. But some things don\u2019t change much. For us, Christmas  dinner is one of them.<\/p>\n<p><em>Susan Swan\u2019s new novel,<\/em> The Western Light <em>(Cormorant Books), is in stores now.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Why a fun holiday trumps a fussy one In the 1980s, Susan Swan&#8217;s uncle John (at the head of the table) started displaying his Christmas trees in unusual ways. (Photo courtesy of Susan Swan) &nbsp; Special to The Globe and Mail Published Saturday, Dec. 22 2012 By Susan Swan &nbsp; From the moment I sat &hellip; <\/p>\n<div class=\"more-link-wrapper\"><a href=\"https:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/my-fun-trumps-fussy-family-christmas-in-globe-and-mail-plus-recipes\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;My Fun Trumps Fussy Family Christmas in Globe and Mail (plus recipes)&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[11,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1883","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog","category-literary"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>My Fun Trumps Fussy Family Christmas in Globe and Mail (plus recipes) &#8211; Susan Swan<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/susanswanonline.com\/wpress\/my-fun-trumps-fussy-family-christmas-in-globe-and-mail-plus-recipes\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"My Fun Trumps Fussy Family Christmas in Globe and Mail (plus recipes) &#8211; Susan Swan\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Why a fun holiday trumps a fussy one In the 1980s, Susan Swan&#8217;s uncle John (at the head of the table) started displaying his Christmas trees in unusual ways. 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